25 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles You Need to Eat at in 2020

n/naka is currently only open for pickup, with option of bento, kaiseki jūbako or 13-course kaiseki available via its Tock page.

You could say that the Netflix documentary Chef’s Table helped shine a spotlight on n/naka, but the Palms restaurant was already on the map, front and center. Chef-owner Niki Nakayama is a protégé of the legendary Morihiro Onodera (formerly of Mori Sushi and Inn Ann), though Nakayama focuses her talent on kaiseki: a classical style of Japanese cooking that dictates a specific progression of textures, temperatures, tastes and seasonal ingredients. À la carte is not an option, and when every dish is this good, that’s OK by us. n/naka offers either a 13-course modern kaiseki ($275) or a 13-course vegetarian tasting menu ($225), and both can be paired with wine and sake for $125. The menus change daily and seasonally, but there is always something to delight in: a glass filled with sea urchin and lobster in a bath of chilled dashi, maybe, or a seared diver-harvested scallop cuddled next to a warm okra pod. It can take two or three hours to get through a meal here, but it’s well worth it; Nakayama is one of L.A.’s best talents, and scoring a meal at her restaurant is money and time well spent.

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